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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks.


I've changed some of the bulbs to LEDs so thought I would share some of the details with you.


Rear high level stop light: These have been changed to LEDs and I used these red LEDs
NB: these are not as bright as the interior LEDs.


Reversing light: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tonsee-White-Backup-Reverse-Canbus/dp/B01HB9VKGU/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1540454700&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=p21w+led+white+30W


I'll post some pictures of how to access the High Brake light etc and of the results you can expect to see....but first I had better say hello...



Al.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
To access the third/high brake light:


It is fiddly but not difficult and on no account should you use any force.

First you need to open the boot and remove the black cover. Prise from one side first with a trim removal tool:



The next couple of photos show the little plastic clips that need pressing towards the centre slightly NO FORCE IS NEEDED! (Incidently I had to use an old mirror to get these shots):






It is fiddly to get the bulb holder bar back** so have a little patience and don't force anything!!

**TIP: After you release the clips have a little practice relocating the bulb bar before you fully get it out through the access opening to change to LEDs/replace blown bulbs.

See next post........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
...the next photo shows the bulb holder gently removed:




...the next photo, unplugged.... if you need to...but you should not need to do this...make sure you refit the plug correctly:






Hope that's been of help.

Al.


PS: TIP: Test leds/ bulbs before refitting bulb bar just in case you need to re-seat or turn LEDs ... you can just press the brake pedal...no need to start the car...open the door and just put your leg in whilst standing outside looking backwards....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
One important point to remember is that you must use a Red LED behind a Red lens ...(amber behind an amber lens etc...). You can use any colour behind a clear/opaque lens.


Result:


Before....



After...



Much brighter and slightly faster reaction time.....Especially good if you have a high vehicle travelling behind.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Reversing light change is a little awkward as there is a small nut to remove before the rear light cluster can be removed.



After you remove the small screw under the little flap next to the boot door on the interior trim and remove the centre pin and pull out the little fastener bung* next to the rear seat there is a small nut to remove when you gently pull away the trim. You will need an 8mm socket to release the little retaining nut that is in an awkward position and there is a danger of it falling inside.

You only need to release the tightness then you can use your fingers but I would suggest you use a cloth to fill in the void below and to the sides of the nut to prevent it falling into the panel if it slips from your fingers. The tip of the thread is smooth to help you avoid dropping the nut and this helps as a guide when replacing it.

You can then remove the light cluster from the outside but you may find it difficult to pull the little locking lugs from their very tight holding retainers.

There is one near the top and one near the lower area of the lens. They cannot be accessed and you need to pull the cluster away so they pop out of the retainers.

I found it easier to stand at the side of the car and push sharply on the side of the cluster towards to back whilst wearing a rubber glove. This should 'pop' the cluster off. Don't push too hard as you don't want to cause any damage; just a short sharp action should do it as you are only releasing the two little lugs from their retainers.

Just before you replace the cluster after swapping/changing your LED/bulb rub a little WD40 or vaseline on both the little lugs to make removal easier in the future.

*NB: You don't have to remove the little fastener bung near the rear seat but it does give you a little better access.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In the previous post I mentioned how to release the rear light clusters.

Here's a few photos to show the items I mentioned:

This is the small screw that you need to remove by the boot door (next to the little bag hook).





This is the bung that needs to be removed near the rear seat (centre pin shown partly released).



,,,and this is the location of the small nut that needs removing with care (socket wrench shown on nut).



...as I mentioned; once you take off the tension on the nut it's quite easy to use your fingers to remove it...but don't drop it in the process!!


NB: You don't have to remove the little fastener bung near the rear seat but it does give you a little better access.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is the result of the swap from bulb to LED in the reverse light.

The garage door is really too close but it does show the benefit of the LED.

This is the OEM bulb:



...and this is the LED:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The boot area and front interior are greatly improved:







These are non-CanBus compatible.


These will be too bright for the rear number plate but they are brilliant for the boot area and front courtesy lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The rear number plate result:





Plenty bright enough and very white. Energy saving around 90% (2X0.5W LEDs vs 2X5W Bulbs). These are non-CanBus compatible.

NB:Excessive red on rear of car caused by tail lights reflecting off the white interior of my garage door.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
EXTERIOR:

Well I've had a good look around for other LEDs but as this is predominately a City/Town car it doesn't seem worth the expense as the existing exterior bulbs are quite adequate for purpose.

I feel the high/third stop light was worth changing to LEDs for safety reasons and also the reversing for the extra bright white illumination together with a better range, especially with the dark tinted rear windows in our Allure model...plus the power saving associated with LEDs.

The rear number plate bulbs were a low cost change to LED and are another saving in battery draw as well as being aesthetically pleasing on a white car.

Regarding the Headlights I did find a whiter bulb with a 20% (claimed) increase in brightness but at an offer price of just over £29** each I again feel the cost involved a bit prohibitive; unless you get a bulb fail and need to replace them anyway. Be aware though, life expectancy is much shorter....Oh; and have a read of the customers reviews...

Link is here if you are interested: https://www.amazon.co.uk/INTENSE-hea...lips+hir2+9012

https://www.osram.com/am/ecat/COOL%2...t/ZMP_4052884/

** PS: I notice they are now further reduced to £27 each....

INTERIOR:

The interior bulbs I've changed to LEDs are perfect and a decent improvement at reasonable cost....whiter, brighter and again a saving in power consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re HiR2 headlight bulbs: Just found these but I haven't tested them.


Only a couple of reviews but both 5 star. Doesn't specify 'quartz glass' but does say 'heat resisting glass'. Claim 120% more light on the road.

At £40 for a pair I think they may be worth considering.

...and slightly cheaper at £37 on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/PIAA-HYPER-...12/17018190300

Please report back if you decide to give these a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's a post from my 308 bulb to LED thread which I think demonstrates the reason why you need a coloured LED behind a coloured lens; in addition I have already tested my lens but with white LEDs and the result was very poor as I expected. I just wanted to test to ensure the Non-CanBus compatible type worked ok.

Quote from my 308 Post:

You can install any colour LED behind a clear or opaque lens. Choose a colour suitable for purpose. i.e. Amber for turn indicators etc. Interior footwells can be white or a colour of your choice; just ensure they are dimmable if your version has the same function as my Allure.


Coloured lens' should have a matching coloured LED. i.e. Red lens = red LED; Amber lens = amber LED.

A white LED behind a coloured lens 'dilutes' the colour and is not as bright. This because a red lens will allow the red wavelength of the spectrum through and block the others, and there is very little of the red spectrum in a white LED.


PS: I found this example which I feel demonstrates this quite clearly:






NB: The colour choice should be appropriate according to the laws in the Country you are driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rear Number Plate Link:


Third/High Level Brake Light: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extremely-1...rd+Brake+Light

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extremely-1...rd+Brake+Light


Boot and Front Interior Light: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMAZENAR-Ex...ed+bulbs+white

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMAZENAR-Ex...ed+bulbs+white


Reverse Light: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tonsee-Whit...+led+white+30W


NB: Regarding the reverse light LED I actually obtained mine from ebay but that was many years ago. I did find some similar but they were around £20. This one from Amazon is similar but much lower cost. I have not personally tested it but it is very low cost and worth a try.
 

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Re HiR2 headlight bulbs: Just found these but I haven't tested them.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PIAA-Hyper-...T4ZR33ECJHG4SP

Only a couple of reviews but both 5 star. Doesn't specify 'quartz glass' but does say 'heat resisting glass'. Claim 120% more light on the road.

At £40 for a pair I think they may be worth considering.

...and slightly cheaper at £37 on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/PIAA-HYPER-...12/17018190300

Please report back if you decide to give these a try.
I have those in our 108 (a 16 plate active 5 door) and they are notably brighter and whiter. Sorry I didn't do a
before & after photo.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Turn Signal

I thought I would test the turn signals today with Amber PY21W LEDs.

I tested with both 30W and 50W CanBus compatible LEDs and they worked fine as hazard flashers but unfortunately they suffered hyper-flashing when used as a turn signal.

This can be rectified with extra load resistors but I do not like using them.

They are easy enough to fit but need a good air space as they can get very hot and must not be mounted on any plastic part. They also need to be the correct size rating for the circuit they are for. There is also a danger that they may overheat and ignite (that's very rare).

Instead I have fitted these Osram Diadem PY21W bulbs I had spare in my collection.


They are practically invisible as compared to the standard amber 'egg yolk' appearance.

I found some in Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIADEM-halo...gateway&sr=8-1

They come in either Chrome or the Diadem (which is the style I fitted).

Very easy to swap the fronts; the rears are a little more fiddly and not really worth changing.

Have fun.

Al.
 

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Hello,
I have tried out various halogen and a couple of LED bulbs for the headlights hi/lo beam.
I do not like the look of the halogen bulbs I was able to find; none of them were white enough for my taste,
so I tested out some LED's, and loved the color of them.
But the problem with the LED's I have tried, is that while they are nice of color, and somewhat brighter using low beam,
I find that the high beam is not very bright and does not reach as far as stock/whiter halogen bulbs, but the LED's do light up signs/markings/animals even though it is not shining directly at it.
I would love to find the right type of bulbs that gives a white/white-bluish color, but are still very bright with both high and low beam.
Would you know any type of bulb I might try to get the result I'm looking for?

- Thanks in advance,
and I greatly appreciate this thread with guides on changing different lights, I am currently awaiting shipping of LED's for brake and reverse lights! :)
 
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